1. You call
Tell me the make, model, year, roughly where the car is, and whether you've lost every key or just want a spare. I'll quote you on the phone.
Automotive › Car key replacement
Lost every key? You don't need a tow and you don't need a dealership appointment. Give me the make, model, year and VIN and I'll originate a new key from scratch, cut it to code and program it to the car where it sits.
(559) 862-5852Open 24 hours · License #LCO6853 · Proof of ownership required
Keys I can make
Car keys stopped being simple pieces of metal a long time ago. Here's what I handle and what each one actually is.
A plain cut key with no electronics — common on older vehicles and still used for trunk, glove box and valet keys. I cut these to code on site in a few minutes, with no programming needed.
The key has a chip in the head that talks to the immobilizer. If the chip isn't recognized, the engine won't start even when the key turns. I cut the blade and program the chip to your vehicle so it starts properly.
The thicker key with a wavy channel milled down the center instead of teeth on the edge. These need a milling machine rather than a standard key cutter — I carry one.
Key and remote in one body, with the lock, unlock and panic buttons built in. Supplied, cut and paired to the vehicle so both the blade and the buttons work.
No blade in the ignition — the car detects the fob in your pocket. I can program these for most makes. A few manufacturers restrict this to dealer-only equipment, so tell me the year and model on the phone and I'll confirm before I drive out.
The cheapest key you'll ever buy is the spare you get made before you need it. If you're down to one working key, getting a second cut now costs a fraction of originating a key from nothing at midnight.
How it works
Tell me the make, model, year, roughly where the car is, and whether you've lost every key or just want a spare. I'll quote you on the phone.
I check your ownership documents, pull the key code from the VIN, and cut the blade in the van. Nothing gets drilled and nothing gets replaced that doesn't need to be.
I program the key to the immobilizer, then test it in every lock and start the engine before I take payment. If you want the old keys wiped from the car's memory, I'll do that too.
What I need from you
I will always ask for documentation before I make a key for a vehicle. Registration, title or an insurance card in your name, together with photo ID. If the car is in someone else's name I'll need them present or reachable.
I know it's a nuisance when you're already having a bad day. It's also precisely the reason you can be confident nobody else is walking up to your car and having a key made for it.
Questions
Yes. With the make, model, year and VIN I can originate a key from scratch — cut to the manufacturer's code and programmed to the vehicle on site. You don't need an existing key to start from.
Most jobs are done in one visit. A straightforward transponder key is usually well under an hour once I'm at the vehicle. Originating a key with no existing copy takes longer, because the code has to be looked up and the blade cut from scratch.
In most cases, yes — and you save the tow and the appointment. Call with your year and model and I'll give you a firm number before I set out, so you can compare it against the dealer quote yourself.
That's your call. If your keys were stolen, I can erase them from the vehicle's memory so they no longer start it. If you're just adding a spare, everything you already have keeps working.
Usually the transponder chip or the immobilizer, but a worn ignition cylinder can do the same thing. I can test the key, the chip and the cylinder at the vehicle and tell you which it is rather than replacing parts on a guess.
Call me directly. I answer my own phone, day or night — and I'll give you an honest arrival time and a price before I set out.